You’re ready to step up your night hunting game with thermal technology, but now comes the big question: handheld or clip-on? Both options let you see heat signatures in complete darkness, but they serve different purposes and fit different hunting styles. Making the wrong choice means wasted money and frustration in the field.
We’ve tested thermal devices across hundreds of hunting sessions, and the answer isn’t always straightforward. Your choice depends on how you hunt, what you’re hunting, and whether you already own quality day optics. Let’s break down the real differences so you can make the right call.
A handheld thermal monocular is a standalone scanning device that detects heat signatures through infrared technology. You hold it in your hand, scan your hunting area, spot your target, then switch to your rifle for the shot. These devices typically weigh 10-15 ounces and fit in your pocket or on a chest rig.
Think of it like thermal binoculars but designed for one-eye viewing. This design keeps your other eye adapted to darkness while you scan. Most handheld units today feature 384×288 or 640×480 resolution sensors, detection ranges from 400 to over 1,500 yards, and battery life between 5-10 hours.
Handheld monoculars work independently of your rifle setup. You can use them with any weapon system, whether it’s a bolt gun, AR platform, or shotgun. Many hunters keep one in their pack as a general-purpose scanning tool for scouting and detection work.
A clip-on thermal device mounts in front of your existing daytime rifle scope, converting it into a thermal optic without changing your zero. The thermal sensor projects an image that you view through your day scope’s magnification and reticle. When you’re done hunting, you remove the clip-on and your rifle returns to normal daytime use.
Clip-ons attach using rail mounts or objective lens adapters. They work with most quality daytime scopes that have 24mm to 56mm objective lenses. You’ll need to perform a one-time collimation process to align the thermal image with your scope’s reticle, but after that, the zero holds when you remove and remount the device.
Some clip-on models can double as handheld scanners when not mounted to a rifle. You’ll need an optional eyepiece adapter for comfortable handheld viewing, but this dual-purpose capability gives you flexibility. Products like the Arc LRF offer this versatility.
Handheld units give you the freedom to scan without pointing a firearm. This matters for safety and comfort. You can glass entire hillsides, check livestock, or monitor property lines without the weight and awkwardness of a rifle. Most hunting involves far more scanning than shooting—handhelds are built for this reality.
Weight and portability rank high among handheld advantages. A 12-ounce thermal monocular slips into a cargo pocket. Try that with a rifle-mounted system. You can scout on foot, climb into stands, or navigate thick brush without bulk. The Draco series exemplifies this compact approach.
Price typically favors handhelds at entry and mid-range levels. A quality 384×288 handheld costs $1,500-$2,500, while comparable clip-on models start around $2,000-$3,000. You’re paying for scanning capability only, not the additional engineering required for recoil resistance and precision collimation.
Battery life tends to run longer on handhelds. Without the need to power complex mounting systems or maintain perfect zero under recoil, these devices can operate 8-12 hours on a single charge. That covers multiple hunting sessions before you need to recharge.
You can’t shoot through a handheld monocular. Once you spot game, you must set down the thermal, pick up your rifle, relocate your target through your day scope (or thermal rifle scope), and take the shot. In fast-paced predator hunting, this costs precious seconds. Coyotes don’t wait around.
Handheld devices require two separate pieces of gear. You need the thermal monocular plus a separate aiming system on your rifle—either traditional night vision, a dedicated thermal scope, or excellent low-light glass. This doubles your equipment investment if you’re building a complete night hunting system.
Juggling multiple devices in the field creates hassle. Hold the monocular in one hand, your rifle in the other, maybe a call or remote in a third hand you don’t have. Hunters working solo from ground positions feel this pain more than those shooting from blinds or with a partner.
Field of view limitations can frustrate scanning work. While many handhelds offer decent FOV for their sensor class, you’re still looking through one eye with no depth perception. Distances get tricky to judge without a built-in laser rangefinder, which adds cost.
Clip-ons preserve your existing scope setup and zero. If you’ve spent years learning your ballistics, drop, and windage with a particular day scope, a clip-on lets you apply all that knowledge at night. Your reticle, turrets, and parallax settings work exactly the same—just with a thermal image instead of visible light.
Switching between day and night hunting becomes fast and simple. Hunt the morning with your day scope, clip on the thermal unit for an evening predator stand, then remove it for the next day’s deer hunt. Your rifle never needs re-zeroing between modes. This flexibility appeals to hunters who don’t want multiple dedicated rifles.
Some clip-on models double as handheld spotters with an eyepiece adapter. You get two tools in one purchase. Scan from a distance like a handheld, then mount to your rifle when you’re ready to shoot. This dual functionality can justify the higher price tag.
Clip-ons can extend effective range by utilizing high-magnification day scopes. Pair a 640×480 clip-on with a quality 4-16x scope and you’ve got serious long-range capability. The day scope’s magnification multiplies the thermal sensor’s base performance.
Weight distribution gets front-heavy fast. A clip-on mounted ahead of your day scope adds 1-2 pounds to the front end of your rifle. This throws off balance and makes extended shooting sessions tiring. Chassis rifles handle this better than traditionally stocked guns.
Mounting complexity exceeds plug-and-play simplicity. You’ll need proper adapters matched to your scope’s objective diameter. Universal mounts often introduce movement and zero shift. Custom mounts from companies like Rusan cost extra but solve these problems. Budget time and money for getting the setup right.
Image quality depends on your day scope’s glass. The thermal image passes through your daytime scope’s lenses before reaching your eye. Budget day scopes with mediocre glass degrade the thermal image. You need quality host optics—think Nightforce, Vortex Razor, or Swarovski—to maximize clip-on performance.
Collimation requires patience and practice. Aligning a clip-on isn’t hard, but it’s not instant either. Moving your clip-on between rifles means re-collimating for each gun. Some hunters report POI shifts when switching between different magnification levels on variable scopes.
Price often exceeds equivalent handheld or dedicated thermal scopes. A mid-range clip-on runs $2,500-$4,000, while a similar-sensor handheld costs $1,500-$2,500 and a dedicated thermal scope might be $2,000-$3,000. You’re paying for the engineering required to maintain zero and work with existing optics.
Property owners checking fence lines, monitoring livestock, or doing general observation work benefit most from handhelds. You’re covering large areas, making quick assessments, and rarely taking shots. A lightweight scanning device beats rifle-mounted systems for this application. Detection matters more than precision aiming.
Predator callers working from setups with good visibility should consider handhelds paired with dedicated thermal rifle scopes or quality night vision. Scan with the handheld until you locate coyotes or hogs, set it down, then engage through your rifle-mounted optic. This two-device approach maximizes both scanning efficiency and shooting accuracy.
Long-range precision shooters who’ve invested heavily in quality day optics often prefer clip-ons. If you’ve got a $2,000 day scope with perfect zero and know your ballistics inside-out, a clip-on extends that setup into darkness. You maintain the shooting system you trust.
Hunters who transition between day and night hunting on the same trip lean toward clip-ons. Start your hunt in daylight, stay in the field through dusk, then continue after dark—all with one rifle setup. The ability to remove and remount without affecting zero makes this seamless.
Budget-conscious hunters starting from scratch often do better with a handheld monocular plus a lower-cost dedicated thermal scope. This combination costs less than a clip-on plus quality day scope, and you get better thermal performance for hunting. Save clip-ons for after you’ve established your primary night hunting system.
Detection range tells you when the device picks up a heat signature. Recognition range tells you when you can identify what that signature actually is. The gap between these numbers can be huge—and it matters more with clip-ons.
A 384×288 handheld might detect a hog at 800 yards but only let you recognize it as a hog (versus a cow or deer) at 300 yards. That’s fine for scanning work. You spot heat, then investigate closer. Clip-ons face the same sensor limitations, but you’re also looking through your day scope’s magnification, which can introduce pixelation when you zoom in.
Resolution becomes the limiting factor. When you magnify a thermal image beyond the sensor’s native capability, you’re just making pixels bigger. A 640×480 clip-on handles more magnification than a 384×288 before the image degrades. Match your clip-on’s resolution to your day scope’s magnification range.
Most experienced hunters suggest keeping day scope magnification at 6x or lower when using clip-ons. Some high-end hunters run clip-ons with LPVOs (1-6x or 1-8x variable scopes) for close to medium range work. Going above 8-10x magnification requires 640-class sensors minimum to maintain usable image quality.
Weather affects both equally. Fog, heavy rain, and extreme temperature differences reduce thermal effectiveness across all device types. Handhelds might be easier to shield with your body, while clip-ons stay protected behind your scope caps until you’re ready to use them.
Entry-level thermal handhelds ($800-$1,500) offer 256×192 sensors and 300-400 yard detection. They work fine for close-range scanning and learning whether thermal technology fits your needs. Brands like AGM and ATN populate this segment. You’ll outgrow these quickly if serious hunting is your goal.
Mid-range handhelds ($1,500-$3,500) step up to 384×288 or 640×480 sensors with 800-1,200 yard detection. This range delivers serious scanning performance without premium pricing. Most hunters find their sweet spot here. Our Sirius HD falls into this category, balancing capability with affordability.
Premium handhelds ($3,500+) feature 640×480 or higher resolution, detection beyond 1,500 yards, and integrated laser rangefinders. They’re built for professional use or hunters who demand maximum capability. High-end Pulsar and InfiRay models dominate this space.
Clip-ons start higher. Basic models begin around $2,000 for 384×288 sensors. Mid-range options ($2,500-$4,500) offer 640×480 sensors with better sensitivity. Premium clip-ons exceed $6,000 and compete with military-grade equipment. The price reflects complex engineering for maintaining zero under recoil.
Don’t forget hidden costs. Clip-ons require quality day scopes to perform well—add $800-$2,000 for proper glass if you don’t already own it. Mounting systems cost $100-$400. Handhelds need separate aiming solutions, whether thermal scopes, night vision, or premium low-light optics.
Start by honestly assessing your current gear. Do you already own quality daytime scopes on rifles you love? A clip-on might make sense. Starting from scratch? A handheld plus dedicated thermal scope often delivers better value and performance.
Consider your typical hunting scenarios. Lots of scanning with occasional shots favors handhelds. Quick transitions from day to night hunting with one rifle favors clip-ons. Dedicated nighttime predator control with calling setups? Either works, but handhelds give you more flexibility.
Think about future expansion. Handhelds work with any rifle system you’ll ever own. Clip-ons lock you into specific scope mounting and magnification constraints. If you like changing rifle configurations, handhelds offer more freedom.
Budget realistically for the complete system. A $1,800 handheld monocular plus a $2,500 dedicated thermal scope gives you a capable two-device setup for $4,300. A $3,500 clip-on plus $1,500 day scope costs $5,000 and might deliver less thermal performance.
Some hunters eventually own both. Use a handheld for general scanning and property checks. Keep a clip-on on your precision rifle for situations where you need to leverage your long-range day scope setup. There’s no rule saying you must choose only one approach forever.
Handheld thermal monoculars excel at scanning, portability, and cost-effectiveness. They’re safer for general observation, lighter to carry, and simpler to use. The downside? You can’t shoot through them, and you’ll need a separate aiming solution on your rifle.
Clip-on thermal devices shine when you want to preserve your existing scope setup and zero. They’re ideal for hunters who transition between day and night with the same rifle. The tradeoffs include higher cost, front-heavy weight distribution, and mounting complexity.
Your hunting style dictates the right answer. Property surveillance and general scanning favor handhelds. Long-range precision work with quality day optics favors clip-ons. Budget-conscious hunters often do best with a handheld plus a mid-range dedicated thermal scope.
Before you buy, think through your typical hunting situations and complete system costs. Both technologies work—they just work best for different applications. Choose based on how you actually hunt, not how you imagine hunting in perfect conditions.
You’ve probably heard anglers talking about thermal scopes and wondered if they’re the secret weapon for finding fish. The short answer? Not quite the way you’d think. Fish are cold-blooded creatures whose temperature is not constant and depends on the water temperature, which makes them really hard to spot with thermal technology. But that doesn’t mean thermal scopes are useless for fishing—you just need to know what they can and can’t do.
We’re going to walk you through how thermal imaging actually works around water, why you won’t see fish swimming below the surface, and the surprising ways thermal scopes can still help you catch more fish. If you’re interested in exploring different thermal imaging options, check out our range of outdoor thermal devices designed for various applications.
Here’s the deal: water absorbs infrared radiation, which reduces the effectiveness of thermal imaging, and infrared radiation does not penetrate water well. Think of water as a thick blanket that blocks the heat signatures thermal scopes need to create an image.
But there’s another problem. A thermal imaging camera displays a contrasting temperature background of the objects you are observing, and it will not show fish with the same body temperature as the water. Most fish sit at roughly the same temperature as their surroundings, so even if the infrared radiation could get through the water (which it can’t), there’d be almost no temperature difference to detect.
The primary limitation of thermal imaging underwater is the poor penetration of infrared radiation, and thermal cameras are limited to detecting heat on or very near the surface. Sound familiar if you’ve ever tried using one near a lake or river? That’s why.
Before you write off thermal imaging for fishing completely, there’s good news. Schools of fish change the characteristics of the water’s surface, and that’s what you can see with thermal imaging. When fish are active near the surface—feeding, breaking, or moving in large schools—they create tiny temperature changes and disturbances that show up on a thermal scope.
Thermal-imaging cameras are sensitive enough to see temperature breaks — areas that tend to attract schools of baitfish and predators, as long as the water temperature changes rapidly within a few meters. This works particularly well in saltwater where you’re looking for temperature gradients offshore, or at night when you’re trying to spot baitfish dimpling the surface.
For those serious about nighttime observation and fishing applications, our Pegasus 2 LRF offers long-range detection capabilities that work well in low-light marine conditions.
Thermal cameras can register a temperature anomaly as small as a tenth of a degree, and that difference becomes more pronounced offshore when the camera’s field of view fills with mostly water and sky. This is where thermal imaging really shines for fishing.
You can spot weed lines, kelp paddies, and floating debris that hold fish—even in complete darkness. These objects absorb heat differently than open water, making them stand out like beacons on your thermal display. Anglers say they’ve hooked tuna after finding breaking fish before daylight by using a thermal-imaging camera, and can spot schools of baitfish dimpling the surface in the dark.
While infrared radiation is absorbed by water, it is possible to detect temperature differences on the water’s surface, and fish swimming close to the surface can create disturbances and thermal anomalies. Look, it’s not x-ray vision, but it beats staring into pitch darkness hoping to stumble onto fish.
Honestly, thermal imaging does way more for fishing safety and navigation than direct fish finding. Thermal cameras cannot see through water, but they’re still the best tool for professional and recreational marine use when you need to see in total darkness.
Infrared thermal imaging cameras can reliably deliver clear thermal images even in extremely low-visibility conditions such as nighttime, heavy fog, rain, or snow, and provide all-weather identification of key targets including other vessels, buoys, shorelines, and floating debris. You’ll avoid hitting debris, spot other boats, and navigate safely—which matters more than finding fish when you’re miles offshore in the dark.
During winter fishing, thermal imaging can identify weak spots in ice, cracks, and thin areas that could be dangerous. It’s a safety tool first, fishing aid second. Our thermal monocular technology article explains more about how these devices work if you’re curious about the technical side.
Sonar technology, which uses sound waves to detect objects underwater, is widely used for fish finding and can penetrate water effectively and provide detailed information about the location, size, and movement of fish schools. If you want to see what’s actually below your boat, sonar is your answer—not thermal.
Underwater cameras, often coupled with lighting systems, can capture visual images of fish and other marine life and are commonly used in marine biology, underwater research, and recreational diving. These give you actual video of what’s down there, which is pretty cool if you’re trying to figure out what fish are doing around your bait.
Thermal scopes work great for spotting surface activity and navigating at night, but they’re not replacements for traditional fish finders. Use them together and you’ll have a much better setup than relying on just one technology.
So can you see fish with a thermal scope? Not underwater—physics just doesn’t work that way. Water blocks infrared radiation and fish match the water temperature too closely to show up as heat signatures. But thermal scopes aren’t worthless for fishing. They’ll help you spot surface activity, temperature breaks, floating structure, and navigate safely in conditions where regular vision fails.
The best approach? Use thermal imaging for what it does well—surface observation, safety, and navigation—and stick with sonar for finding fish below the surface. Thermal technology has its place in your fishing toolkit, just not as an underwater fish camera. If you’re ready to explore thermal imaging for your outdoor adventures, visit our main product page to see our full lineup of thermal devices.
Can thermal scopes see through water to detect fish?
No, thermal scopes cannot see through water. Water absorbs infrared radiation that thermal imaging relies on, blocking heat signatures from penetrating more than a few millimeters below the surface. Fish swimming underwater remain invisible to thermal technology.
What can thermal imaging actually help with when fishing?
Thermal imaging excels at detecting surface activity like baitfish schools dimpling the water, temperature breaks that attract fish, weed lines, floating debris, and other surface features. It’s also excellent for safe navigation in darkness, fog, or low-visibility conditions on the water.
Why don’t fish show up on thermal cameras?
Fish are cold-blooded animals that maintain body temperatures nearly identical to the surrounding water. Thermal cameras detect temperature differences, and since fish don’t create enough contrast against the water temperature, they remain undetectable even if water penetration wasn’t an issue.
Is thermal imaging or sonar better for finding fish?
Sonar is better for directly locating fish underwater. It uses sound waves that penetrate water effectively and can show exact fish locations, depths, and school sizes. Thermal imaging works best for surface observation and navigation, while sonar handles underwater detection.
Can you see fish breaking the surface with a thermal scope at night?
Yes, you can detect fish activity at the surface with thermal imaging. When fish break the surface, create disturbances, or move in schools near the top, they change the water surface characteristics enough to show up as thermal patterns—particularly useful for spotting feeding activity before dawn.
The question of whether thermal monoculars count as “cheating” in hunting has sparked heated debates across hunting forums, wildlife agencies, and campfires nationwide. As prices drop and technology becomes more accessible, we’re seeing more hunters reach for thermal devices—and more controversy following them into the field.
But here’s the thing: The answer isn’t black and white. Whether thermal monoculars cross the line depends on local laws, how you use them, and what you personally believe about fair chase. Let’s dig into both sides of this debate.
Thermal imaging devices provide an unfair advantage during hunting seasons, as an animal’s natural camouflage doesn’t disguise its body heat. This is the core argument from critics. These devices detect heat signatures through darkness, fog, and dense vegetation—conditions where animals typically have the advantage.
Thermal imaging devices can reveal every animal with a heat signature in clearcuts, burn scars and heavy brush. Your thermal monocular essentially strips away the cover that wildlife depends on for survival. Some hunters see this as removing the “hunt” from hunting.
The technology has gotten so good—and so affordable—that the cost of thermal imaging cameras has dropped from thousands of dollars to about $200. What was once military-grade equipment is now in every hunter’s budget.
It is currently illegal nationwide to hunt any game animal at night—this includes deer, turkey, elk and moose. So right off the bat, thermal optics for big game are off the table after dark everywhere in the US.
But daytime use? That’s where things get complicated. Thermal hunting laws differ from state to state. Many states allow thermal optics for hunting non-game animals like hogs and coyotes, while others completely ban their use.
In Oregon, it is illegal to use a thermal device to hunt, locate, or scout for the purpose of hunting any wildlife. It is illegal to use thermal devices when recovering harvested wildlife or tracking an injured animal as tracking and recovery are considered hunting. That’s one of the strictest approaches in the country.
Meanwhile, states like Alabama allow thermal with a license for hogs and coyotes at night, and Louisiana permits them for hogs and coyotes. If you’re in Texas, you’ll find even more permissive rules for invasive species management.
Before you head out with any thermal device, check your state’s specific regulations. Laws are evolving fast, and what’s legal today might not be next season. We’ve seen recent crackdowns in several states, with 13 hunters arrested in Oregon in December 2024 for using thermal imaging equipment.
Fair chase is the ethical, sportsmanlike and lawful pursuit and taking of free-range wildlife in a manner that does not give a hunter improper or unfair advantage over such wildlife. This century-old principle is at the heart of the thermal debate.
Fair chase means giving animals a reasonable chance to escape. Over-reliance on high-tech optics can erode this principle. Hunters should limit shots to clean, humane kills and avoid using thermal devices to gain an unfair advantage.
But hold on—where do we draw the line? Hunters already use rangefinders, high-powered scopes, trail cameras, and GPS. We all use technology to our advantage in some sort. One hunter’s $3,000 spotting scope gives them an edge too. Is that cheating?
If it is legal, there is absolutely nothing unethical about an individual using one, some hunters argue. They see ethics as a personal choice, not something that should be forced on others through regulation.
Here’s where the conversation gets more nuanced. Wildlife agencies take a pragmatic approach to invasive predators in the American South and parts of the Midwest. States like Texas, Georgia and Florida empower landowners and licensed hunters to remove feral hogs and coyotes at night using thermal optics. These programs help control exploding hog populations that destroy crops and reduce coyote predation on livestock.
Feral hogs cause billions in damage annually. They’re not trophy animals—they’re destructive invasive species. Using thermal devices like the Sirius HD or Pegasus 2 LRF for pest control isn’t about sport. It’s about wildlife management.
Thermal devices support ethical hunting by shortening recovery times for wounded game—locating residual heat reduces tracking time and animal suffering. When you need to recover a wounded animal quickly, thermal technology becomes a mercy tool, not a cheat code.
Safety also factors in. Thermal monoculars boost safety by revealing human heat signatures and obstacles during low-visibility approaches, cutting the risk of misidentification that can lead to unsafe shots. Accidentally shooting another hunter because you couldn’t see them in pre-dawn darkness? That’s a nightmare thermal devices help prevent.
The hunting community is split. One hunter argued against someone who called thermals “major cheating,” pointing out: “Well you have been cheating all your hunting life, you use an incredible machine in the form of your hunting Dog, super animal smelling, hearing, great vision combined with super stamina”.
Meanwhile, others who’ve used thermal devices honestly admit: “If some idiot has decided to use it to spot deer in a unit it is an extreme unfair advantage to the critters. These animals can be damn good at hiding from our high-tech glass, but hiding from FLIR, gives them not much of a chance”.
Some hunters in Colorado called thermal use during scouting “illegal and cheating” and “a bit lazy”. The emotional response tells you everything about how divisive this technology has become.
But there’s also realism: “Game does not automatically pop out when you use them. In some instances, thermals are more of a hindering technology than helpful”, explained one experienced thermal user. The devices aren’t magic wands—they still require skill, fieldcraft, and patience.
So is thermal monocular use cheating? The honest answer: It depends on who you ask, where you hunt, and how you use it.
It’s definitely cheating if:
It’s probably not cheating if:
As one expert hunter put it: “It is not the equipment we use that should decide if we are still ethical or not; it is the hunter himself, his approach, skills and knowledge that should make someone remaining an ethical, good hunter with respect for the game. The fact that new technologies allow us to see and do more does not mean that we have to do it”.
You can own a thermal device and still choose when—and if—to use it. Just because you can glass a hillside with a thermal monocular doesn’t mean you should. Personal ethics matter more than what’s hanging around your neck.
Thermal monoculars aren’t inherently good or evil—they’re tools. Whether they cross the line into “cheating” depends on legality, context, and your personal hunting ethics. Some states have drawn clear lines in the sand, banning them outright or restricting them to specific uses. Other states welcome them for invasive species management and predator control.
Before you invest in thermal technology, research your state’s current regulations, understand the fair chase debate, and ask yourself what kind of hunter you want to be. Technology will keep advancing, but the principles of fair chase, wildlife conservation, and ethical hunting should guide every decision we make in the field. At the end of the day, hunting is about more than filling tags—it’s about preserving traditions and respecting the animals we pursue.
Are thermal monoculars legal for hunting in the United States?
It varies by state. Many states permit thermal monoculars for hunting non-game animals like coyotes and feral hogs, especially at night. However, it’s illegal nationwide to hunt game animals (deer, elk, turkey, moose) at night regardless of the device. States like Oregon, California, Alaska, and Colorado have strict restrictions or complete bans on thermal devices for hunting, while Texas, Georgia, and Louisiana allow them for invasive species control. Always check your specific state wildlife agency regulations before using thermal devices.
Can I use a thermal monocular to recover a wounded deer?
This depends entirely on your state. Some states specifically prohibit using thermal devices even for tracking and recovery, considering it part of “hunting.” Oregon, for example, bans thermal use for recovering harvested wildlife or tracking injured animals. Other states may allow it. Before you head out, verify your state’s rules—you don’t want to face legal issues while trying to do the right thing by recovering wounded game.
Is using thermal technology considered fair chase?
The hunting community is divided on this. Critics argue thermal devices give hunters an unfair advantage by revealing heat signatures through cover where animals would normally be safe. Supporters counter that we already use rangefinders, scopes, and trail cameras—all technological advantages. Fair chase ultimately comes down to personal ethics, state regulations, and ensuring animals have a reasonable chance to escape. Many hunters accept thermal use for pest control but draw the line at using it for trophy hunting.
Why are thermal monoculars controversial among hunters?
Thermal monoculars detect heat signatures through darkness, fog, and dense vegetation, essentially removing the natural camouflage animals rely on. This sparks debate because it fundamentally changes the challenge of hunting. The devices have also become affordable (now around $200 instead of thousands), making them accessible to average hunters. Wildlife agencies worry about harvest rates increasing too much, while traditional hunters feel the technology removes skill from the equation. The controversy centers on balancing innovation with conservation and hunting ethics.
What’s the difference between using thermal for pest control versus big game hunting?
Many states and hunters draw ethical distinctions based on purpose. Using thermal devices to control destructive invasive species like feral hogs or predatory coyotes is widely accepted as practical wildlife management, not sport hunting. These animals cause crop damage and threaten livestock, so efficiency matters more than tradition. Big game hunting (deer, elk, turkey), however, is rooted in fair chase principles and sporting tradition. Most states prohibit thermal use for big game at night, and many hunters consider daytime thermal use for trophy animals unethical even where legal.
If you’ve been looking into thermal monoculars for hunting, wildlife observation, or outdoor activities, you’ve probably wondered about the connection between thermal technology and infrared. The short answer? Yes, a thermal monocular is absolutely an infrared device—but there’s more to the story. Let’s break down how these technologies relate and why it matters for your next adventure.
Infrared radiation sits between visible light and microwaves on the electromagnetic spectrum, with wavelengths ranging from around 780 nanometers to 1 millimeter. But here’s the thing: infrared isn’t just one thing. The infrared spectrum includes multiple sub-bands: near-infrared (NIR) from 0.7-1.4 μm, short-wavelength infrared (SWIR) from 1.4-3 μm, mid-wavelength infrared (MWIR) from 3-8 μm, and long-wavelength infrared (LWIR) from 8-15 μm.
Think of it like radio stations—they’re all radio waves, but each frequency gives you different content. Same deal with infrared wavelengths. Each band has different properties and applications, which is why understanding where thermal imaging fits in matters.
A thermal monocular is an infrared device that operates by detecting infrared radiation (heat) from objects and then translating those differences into visual images. Thermal cameras most commonly operate in the long-wave infrared (LWIR) range (7–14 μm), with some systems designed for the mid-wave infrared (MWIR) range (3–5 μm).
We love thermal monoculars at Pixfra because they work differently than your eyes or regular cameras. All objects emit infrared radiation (heat), which is invisible to the naked eye, and the amount of infrared radiation emitted by an object increases with its temperature. Thermal vision monoculars work by detecting and capturing infrared light, which is not visible to the human eye but can be felt as heat.
Here’s where things get interesting. Not all infrared devices are the same. Infrared imaging uses heat to produce images, while conventional night vision uses light. Traditional night vision devices amplify near-infrared light (around 0.85 micrometers), giving you that classic green-tinted image. They need some ambient light to work.
Thermal monoculars? They’re playing a completely different game. Thermal imaging monoculars do not require any ambient light to function effectively, as they detect temperature differences instead, allowing them to create images based on heat signatures emitted by objects. This means our thermal imaging devices work in total darkness, through fog, and even light vegetation.
At the core of a modern thermal scope’s ability to detect infrared radiation is the microbolometer sensor technology, which consists of arrays of microscopic detector elements made from materials (typically vanadium oxide or amorphous silicon) that change electrical resistance when exposed to infrared radiation, and these minute resistance changes are measured, processed, and converted into a visible thermal image.
The Pixfra Sirius HD and other premium thermal devices use advanced sensors that can detect temperature differences as small as 18 millikelvin. That’s incredibly sensitive—we’re talking about spotting the faintest heat signatures at serious distances.
Most thermal monoculars operate in the Long Wave Infrared (LWIR) spectrum from 8-14 micrometers, which is optimal for detecting body heat and general thermal signatures. This wavelength range has a practical advantage: Earth’s surface materials (like soil, water, and vegetation) emit radiation in the LWIR region at their ambient temperature.
What does this mean for you? Whether you’re scanning for deer with the Pegasus 2 LRF or checking your property line at night, your thermal monocular is tuned to the exact wavelength that living creatures and warm objects naturally emit. It’s not about artificial illumination—it’s about reading the thermal signature of your environment.
Infrared is the radiation type, while thermal imaging is the visualization technique. So when someone asks if thermal is infrared, the answer is yes—but it’s a specific application of infrared technology. The terms thermal imaging camera and infrared camera are often used interchangeably, as thermal imaging sensors detect infrared radiation and then express each heat value (or wavelength) through a set of corresponding colors that is viewable on a screen.
All thermal monoculars are infrared devices, but not all infrared devices are thermal. Night vision goggles use near-infrared. Remote controls use near-infrared. But thermal monoculars specifically use the mid- to long-wave infrared bands where heat signatures live. That’s the key distinction that makes products like the Draco and Arc LRF so effective for outdoor applications.
Understanding that thermal monoculars operate in the infrared spectrum helps explain why they excel in specific situations. Thermal imaging technology allows you to see what the human eye cannot by detecting the heat energy emitted by objects, creating a clear picture even in total darkness, dense fog, or heavy vegetation.
We’ve seen hunters use thermal monoculars to spot game that’s completely hidden in brush. Law enforcement uses them for search and rescue in zero-visibility conditions. Firefighters rely on them to see through smoke. All of this works because these devices tap into the long-wave infrared spectrum—the part of the electromagnetic spectrum where thermal energy lives.
So, is a thermal monocular considered infrared? Absolutely. Thermal monoculars are specialized infrared devices that operate in the LWIR spectrum (8-14 micrometers), detecting heat rather than reflected light. This makes them fundamentally different from night vision devices, which use near-infrared amplification. Understanding this distinction helps you appreciate why thermal technology works in conditions where nothing else will—complete darkness, fog, smoke, and camouflage mean nothing when you’re detecting infrared heat signatures. Whether you’re hunting, conducting security patrols, or exploring the outdoors, thermal monoculars give you access to an invisible world of thermal energy that regular optics simply can’t see.
Can thermal monoculars detect all types of infrared radiation?
No, thermal monoculars are specifically designed to detect mid-wave and long-wave infrared radiation (typically 8-14 micrometers). They cannot detect near-infrared radiation used by night vision devices or the infrared signals from TV remotes. Each infrared device is tuned to specific wavelength bands based on its intended purpose.
Do thermal monoculars work better than night vision devices?
It depends on your needs. Thermal monoculars excel at detecting heat signatures in total darkness, fog, and smoke without any light source. Night vision provides more detailed images with better facial recognition but requires some ambient light. Many professionals use both technologies for different situations. Thermal is better for detection and scanning, while night vision offers clearer identification.
Why do thermal monoculars show different colors if they detect infrared?
The colors you see on a thermal display are artificial—they’re created by the device’s processor to help your brain interpret temperature differences. Hotter objects appear in brighter colors (often white or red), while cooler objects show up in darker tones (black or blue). These color palettes make it easier to spot heat signatures quickly compared to viewing raw infrared data.
Can thermal monoculars see through walls?
No, thermal monoculars cannot see through walls like in movies. Walls are thick and insulated, blocking infrared radiation from passing through. What thermal devices can detect is heat on the surface of walls—for example, if there’s a fire or hot water pipe inside, you might see a warm spot on the wall’s surface, but you’re not seeing through the wall itself.
Does weather affect thermal monocular performance?
Thermal monoculars handle most weather conditions better than conventional optics. They work well in fog, light rain, and darkness. However, heavy rain can reduce detection range because water droplets can scatter infrared radiation. Extreme cold or heat can also affect performance by reducing temperature contrast between objects and their surroundings. Still, they outperform regular optics in nearly all low-visibility conditions.
Scanning large properties, tracking heat signatures across open terrain, or spotting wildlife in complete darkness—these tasks require a thermal monocular built for the job. Unlike thermal scopes that stay mounted to your rifle, a dedicated scanning monocular gives you the freedom to cover ground quickly, identify targets efficiently, and keep your weapon pointed safely downrange until you’re ready to take a shot.
We’ve tested dozens of thermal devices in field conditions, and we know what separates a decent monocular from one that’ll actually make your scanning sessions more productive. Let’s walk through what matters when you’re shopping for a thermal monocular specifically designed for scanning.
A scanning monocular needs different strengths than a stationary observation device. You’re moving, covering large areas, and making quick identification decisions. That means you need a device that balances detection range with a usable field of view.
The best scanning monoculars combine three things: enough resolution to identify what you’re looking at, a detection range that matches your property size, and ergonomics that won’t tire you out after 30 minutes. Budget models with 256×192 sensors work fine for close-range scanning under 300 yards, but if you’re working larger properties, you’ll want at least 384×288 resolution. For serious long-range scanning work, 640×480 or higher makes identification much easier at 500+ yards.
Your thermal imaging device should feel comfortable during extended scanning sessions. Weight, grip design, and button placement matter more than spec sheets suggest. We’ve found that monoculars in the 10-15 ounce range hit the sweet spot between portability and stability.
Here’s where manufacturers get creative with their numbers. Detection range tells you when the device picks up a heat signature. Recognition range tells you when you can actually identify what that signature is. The difference can be huge.
A monocular might detect a human-sized heat signature at 1,200 yards but only let you recognize it as a person (versus a coyote or hog) at 400 yards. For scanning purposes, recognition range matters more than detection range. Spotting a blob of heat three ridges over doesn’t help if you can’t tell whether it’s your target species.
Most 384×288 sensors provide reliable recognition out to 300-500 yards depending on conditions. Step up to 640×480 and you’re looking at 500-800 yards of useful recognition. The highest-end 1280×1024 sensors push that past 1,000 yards, but you’ll pay $5,000+ for that capability. Match your sensor to your actual scanning distances, not theoretical maximums.
Resolution gets all the attention, but refresh rate affects your scanning experience just as much. This spec, measured in Hz (Hertz), tells you how many times per second the image updates. For scanning work where you’re panning across landscapes or tracking movement, this makes a real difference.
Most budget thermals run at 9Hz, which creates noticeable lag when you’re moving the device. Mid-range units offer 30Hz, which feels significantly smoother. Premium models push to 50Hz or 60Hz, delivering fluid motion that makes tracking fast-moving targets much easier. If you’re scanning from a vehicle or doing predator work where animals move quickly, spending extra for 50Hz+ pays off.
Refresh rate becomes less important if you’re doing slow, methodical scans from a stationary position. But for dynamic scanning work—moving through terrain, checking multiple zones quickly, or tracking active animals—higher refresh rates reduce eye strain and improve your ability to spot movement.
Wide field of view (FOV) lets you cover more ground per scan, which speeds up your search pattern. Narrow FOV gives you more detail and magnification but forces you to make more sweeps to cover the same area. For dedicated scanning, wider is usually better.
A 20+ degree FOV works well for scanning large fields, forests, or property perimeters. You can make broad sweeps and catch heat signatures quickly. Narrow FOVs under 15 degrees work better for long-range identification after you’ve already located your target. Some devices let you adjust magnification to balance these needs—start wide for detection, zoom in for recognition.
The lens size affects both FOV and detection range. Larger lenses (50mm+) push detection further but narrow your view. Smaller lenses (25-35mm) keep FOV wider but reduce maximum range. Your scanning device choice should match whether you prioritize coverage speed or maximum distance.
Running out of battery 45 minutes into a scanning session wastes everyone’s time. Look for devices offering 6+ hours of runtime, which gives you a full evening of scanning with margin for error. Some budget models barely hit 2 hours, forcing you to carry spare batteries or a power bank.
Rechargeable batteries are convenient for regular use, but external battery options (like CR123As) give you field-swappable power when you can’t recharge. We prefer systems that offer both options. Cold weather dramatically reduces battery life, sometimes cutting it by 30-40%, so factor that into your planning if you’re scanning in winter conditions.
Waterproofing matters more than you’d think. Even if you’re not scanning in rain, morning dew and humidity create problems for devices without proper seals. Look for IPX7 rating minimum, which means the device can handle temporary submersion. This level of protection handles any realistic field conditions you’ll encounter. Some advanced thermal monoculars combine weather resistance with built-in laser rangefinders for precise distance confirmation.
Entry-level thermal monoculars ($800-$1,500) typically offer 256×192 resolution, detection to 300-400 yards, and basic features. They work fine for close-range property scanning, wildlife observation, and learning whether thermal technology fits your needs. Brands like AGM and some ATN models occupy this space.
Mid-range devices ($1,500-$3,500) step up to 384×288 or 640×480 resolution, push detection to 800-1,200 yards, and add features like video recording, WiFi connectivity, and multiple color palettes. This tier delivers the best value for serious scanning work. You get professional-grade performance without the premium price tag. Options like the Draco series or Arc LRF provide reliable scanning capabilities at this level.
Premium monoculars ($3,500+) feature 640×480 or higher resolution, detection beyond 1,500 yards, integrated laser rangefinders, and advanced image processing. They’re built for demanding professional use, extended range work, and users who need maximum capability. High-end Pulsar Telos units and similar devices dominate this category.
Property surveillance and perimeter checking benefit from wide FOV and quick detection. You’re not trying to identify specific animals at extreme range—you want to know if something’s out there. A 384×288 sensor with good refresh rate and 8+ hour battery life handles this perfectly. Scan your fence lines, check for trespassers, or monitor livestock with quick sweeps.
Hunting and wildlife observation demands better recognition range and image quality. You need to identify species, count animals, and judge size before making decisions. This pushes you toward 640×480 resolution minimum, with 50Hz refresh for tracking movement. The ability to record footage helps you study animal patterns and share observations with others.
Search and rescue or tactical scanning requires maximum range and reliability. You’re covering large areas quickly, often in challenging conditions, and you can’t afford to miss heat signatures. Top-tier sensors, laser rangefinders for distance confirmation, and rugged construction become important. These scenarios justify premium pricing because mission success depends on equipment performance.
Some users pair an IR illuminator torch with their thermal monocular for situations requiring both thermal detection and illuminated identification, though most scanning work relies purely on thermal imaging.
Choosing the best thermal monocular for scanning comes down to matching specs to your actual use case. A 384×288 sensor with 30Hz refresh and decent battery life handles most property scanning and wildlife observation tasks. Step up to 640×480 with 50Hz refresh if you need more recognition range or faster tracking. Only go premium if your scanning work truly requires maximum range and professional-grade features.
Don’t get caught up in maximum detection range numbers that exceed your realistic needs. Focus on recognition range that matches your property size, refresh rate that supports your scanning style, and battery life that covers your typical session length. The right thermal monocular makes scanning productive and efficient, while the wrong one—no matter how impressive the specs—creates frustration.
Before making any thermal purchase, consider privacy implications and responsible use of thermal imaging technology.
What resolution thermal monocular do I need for scanning large properties?
For properties over 100 acres, we recommend at least 384×288 resolution, which provides clear recognition to 400-500 yards. If you’re scanning open terrain beyond 500 yards regularly, 640×480 resolution delivers better identification capability. Budget 256×192 sensors work fine for smaller properties under 50 acres where most scanning happens within 300 yards.
How does refresh rate affect scanning performance?
Refresh rate determines how smoothly the image updates as you pan across terrain. 30Hz works adequately for slow, methodical scanning from stationary positions. 50Hz or 60Hz refresh rates provide noticeably smoother motion, reducing eye strain during extended scanning sessions and making it easier to track moving targets. The difference becomes obvious when scanning from vehicles or following active wildlife.
Can thermal monoculars work during daytime for scanning?
Yes, thermal monoculars work perfectly in daylight because they detect heat signatures, not visible light. They’re particularly effective during early morning and late afternoon when temperature differences between animals and their surroundings are greatest. Midday scanning in hot weather can be challenging as ambient heat reduces thermal contrast, making detection harder regardless of your device’s capabilities.
What’s the difference between detection range and recognition range?
Detection range is the maximum distance where your monocular picks up a heat signature, but you can’t identify what it is. Recognition range is where you can actually tell whether that signature is a deer, coyote, person, or vehicle. For scanning purposes, recognition range matters more because detecting an unidentifiable blob at 1,500 yards doesn’t help your decision-making as much as recognizing a specific animal at 600 yards.
Do I need a laser rangefinder on my scanning monocular?
A laser rangefinder (LRF) adds convenience for confirming exact distances to detected targets, but it’s not required for scanning work. It becomes more valuable if you’re scouting for long-range shooting, need precise property measurements, or work in roles requiring documented distances. For general wildlife scanning and property surveillance, a standard thermal monocular without LRF handles the job and saves you several hundred dollars.
Squirrels are sneaky. They flatten themselves against bark, hide in leaf clusters, and seem to vanish the second you look away. You’ve probably been there—your dog’s treed one, and you’re straining your eyes trying to find the little critter before it slips away. A thermal monocular can change that game, but not in the way you might think. These devices detect heat signatures, not movement or shapes, which means they see what your eyes can’t. But there’s a catch: squirrels are small, trees absorb heat, and timing matters more than you’d expect.
We’ve spent time researching how hunters actually use thermal monoculars for squirrels, and the results are mixed. Some swear by them. Others say they’re hit-or-miss depending on conditions. The truth is somewhere in between. If you’re thinking about adding thermal to your squirrel hunting setup—or you already own one and want to use it better—this guide breaks down what actually works in the field.
Thermal monoculars with a wide field of view (FOV), low Noise Equivalent Temperature Difference (NETD), and sensible base magnification work best for squirrel hunting and spotting. The reason comes down to physics. Squirrels are warm-blooded, and their body heat creates a signature that shows up against cooler backgrounds—trees, sky, or foliage.
But here’s where it gets tricky. Thermal works best in early morning before the sun heats up the woodland, and becomes almost useless 2 hours after sunrise. When trees and branches warm up, you get white dots everywhere on your thermal display. You can’t tell what’s a squirrel and what’s just sun-baked bark.
Thermal units work best at twilight, dawn and dusk, where you can’t see clearly and make out shapes of animals from the landscape, and it works best in the morning when the temperature difference between the landscape and body heat is widest. That temperature differential is everything. Cool surroundings + warm squirrel = clear detection. Hot day + heated vegetation = visual mess.
Let’s be honest about what thermal can’t do. If squirrels are just peeking at you, thermal might be difficult, and it won’t work if they are hiding behind a branch or leaves. The device picks up heat, not X-ray vision. A squirrel pressed flat against the back side of a tree trunk? You won’t see it.
Every thermal used in woodland has suffered problems when scanning tree tops, and it’s very weather dependent—early mornings when everything is cooler is better. The clear sky behind treetops can cause whiteout on some thermal models. Type of woodland matters too—how quickly foliage heats up in the sun affects visibility.
Another real issue: For hunting small game such as squirrels, you will need to fork out more money for a high resolution thermal monocular or you will waste your money. Budget models designed for spotting hogs at 200 yards won’t give you the detail needed to confirm a squirrel at 50 yards through branches.
Sensor resolution drives everything. You’ll see options like 160×120, 320×240, 384×288, and 640×512. Handheld thermal monoculars need a wide field of view (FOV), low Noise Equivalent Temperature Difference (NETD), and sensible base magnification. For squirrels specifically, that 384-class or higher resolution makes the difference between “there’s something warm” and “that’s definitely a squirrel.”
Field of view matters more than magnification for scanning. Squirrel spotting favors compact optics with wide FOV, strong sensitivity, and enough resolution to confirm details through branches—these devices excel at fast scanning in dense woods, where small heat signatures demand responsiveness over long-range power. You’re not shooting 500-yard shots. You need to sweep treetops quickly and track movement.
NETD (sensitivity) gets technical, but here’s what it means: lower numbers = better detection of small temperature differences. That’s huge when you’re trying to pick out a squirrel’s faint heat signature from sun-warmed branches. We recommend looking at models from Pixfra’s outdoor thermal lineup that balance these specs for woodland hunting.
Timing beats equipment. A thermal monocular changed everything and gave hunters a much higher chance to spot squirrels hiding in thick leaves, especially in early morning before the sun heats up the woodland—within 2 hours after sunrise, thermal becomes almost useless. That’s your window.
Cooler months perform better than summer. Summer and early autumn are less effective, apart from scanning round bare ground or trees where feeders are—late autumn, winter and spring is when thermal devices come into play. The ambient temperature stays lower longer, giving you more hunting time before everything heats up.
Weather plays a role too. Light rain or overcast skies? That can actually help by keeping ambient temperatures down and reducing sun glare on foliage. One hunter spotted 3 white dots in a tree top 80-100 meters away in a drizzle morning, and spent a whole minute identifying the 3 squirrels hiding in thick leaves with binoculars—without thermal, there was no chance to see them.
Here’s what works in actual field conditions. Scan at angles, not straight up. Looking straight up at treetops with bright sky behind causes whiteout on many thermal models. Try using thermal at a max of about 45 degrees up, and the more dense vegetation behind the better. That gives you contrast.
Combine thermal with regular glass. Many hunters prefer a compact and light thermal device stored in the harness near standard binoculars, always ready to use—the standard binoculars are very helpful to glass after detecting a target, just to be sure. Use thermal to locate the heat signature, then confirm species and shot placement with your regular optics.
Ground squirrels are easier than tree squirrels. There is no doubt how great a thermal is when trying to find squirrels on the ground. Less vegetation interference, better angles, and usually better contrast. If you’re hunting areas with feeders or field edges, thermal shines.
Check out Pixfra’s range of thermal devices to find options that match your specific hunting conditions and budget. Their Arc LRF and Pegasus 2 LRF models offer features that woodland hunters appreciate.
Budget matters, but so does capability. Entry-level thermal monoculars under $600 exist, but you will be able to detect ground squirrel at 200 yards in the right conditions without issue with a $2000 thermal from brands like AGM, PULSAR, IRAY, or Bering Optic. That price jump buys you resolution and sensitivity that makes the difference on small targets.
Some hunters wouldn’t suggest anything lower than the TM-15 level, and note that more expensive thermal units do better with leaves on. Penetrating through foliage and picking up faint signatures requires better sensors. If you hunt during leaf-on season, that matters.
Compact and lightweight wins for squirrel hunting. Squirrels mean lots of scanning and stalking—comfort and battery matter more than extreme range. You’ll be glassing for extended periods, moving through timber, and pulling the device out repeatedly. A bulky unit gets left in the truck.
Features like built-in laser rangefinders help but aren’t critical for squirrels. You’re usually shooting inside 50 yards. Better to spend your budget on sensor quality and FOV. For other thermal applications and understanding how the technology works in different scenarios, check out this article on thermal imaging device privacy concerns.
Thermal monoculars for squirrel hunting aren’t magic, but they’re not gimmicks either. They work best in specific conditions—early morning, cooler months, when temperature differentials are greatest. They struggle in afternoon heat, against bright sky backgrounds, and when squirrels hide behind thick cover.
The key is matching your expectations to reality. A thermal monocular won’t find every squirrel every time, but it will spot ones you’d never see with your naked eye. It’s particularly useful for aging eyes, thick cover, and those frustrating moments when your dog has treed something you just can’t locate.
If you hunt squirrels seriously and can budget for a quality unit (think $1,000+ with at least 384 resolution), you’ll find it pays off on those early morning hunts when everything’s cool and squirrels are moving. Use it as one tool in your kit—not a replacement for field craft, good optics, and understanding squirrel behavior. Time it right, scan smart, and thermal gives you an edge that’s hard to match.
Can thermal monoculars see squirrels through leaves?
Thermal can detect heat signatures through light foliage, but thick leaf cover or branches block the view. It works best when part of the squirrel’s body is exposed. Early morning before leaves heat up gives the best results. If a squirrel is completely hidden behind dense foliage or pressed against the back of a tree trunk, thermal won’t help.
What resolution thermal do I need for squirrel hunting?
You’ll want at least 384×288 resolution for reliable squirrel detection and identification. Budget 160×120 models lack the detail needed for small targets in trees. The 640×512 sensors perform better but cost significantly more. Resolution matters more for squirrels than larger game because you need to confirm small heat signatures at woodland distances through visual clutter.
Why does my thermal monocular work better at dawn?
Temperature differential drives thermal performance. At dawn, trees and vegetation are cool from overnight temperatures while squirrels maintain their warm body heat. This creates strong contrast. Once the sun heats up trees and branches, everything shows as warm on thermal, making it nearly impossible to distinguish squirrels from heated bark.
Do thermal monoculars work for squirrels in summer?
Summer is the toughest season for thermal squirrel hunting. Hot ambient temperatures, sun-heated vegetation, and full leaf coverage all reduce effectiveness. Late autumn through spring provides better conditions. If you hunt summer, stick to very early morning before sunrise, or focus on ground squirrels in open areas where you have better angles and less foliage interference.
Should I buy thermal or stick with a good dog for squirrel hunting?
Both have advantages. Dogs find squirrels in any conditions and any season, plus they’re great companions. Thermal works better in specific conditions (early morning, cooler weather) but won’t tree squirrels for you. Some hunters use both—the dog trees the squirrel, then thermal helps locate it in thick cover. If you can only invest in one, a well-trained dog is more versatile for squirrel hunting specifically.
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